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Expressly Java

By: Philip Game
Bandung Station / Toys for sale

Bandung Station / Toys for sale

Amidst Java’s teeming millions, a comfortable express train is a capsule of calm but is not without hazards of its own… 

Settling into our allocated seats as the chimes of the traditional gamelan orchestra and the reedy notes of a solo bamboo flute pour out from the train's public address. As we gather speed out of the city, morning sun throws a rich golden hue across the flooded rice paddies.  A parade of stewards begins, bearing pillows, drinks, snacks and menus.

The train winds through the minutely terraced volcanic hillsides of West Java.  A patchwork of emerald green is stitched together by clusters of terra-cotta red roofs and tree-clad volcanic ridges. Sometimes a rushing brown river passes underneath, its steep gorge fringed by coconut palms or by a belt of bananas.

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