 A young lady at Makola Market, in the Ghanaian capital Accra |
They said it could never happen – a peaceful democratic transition in West Africa. But the commentators were wrong. Six years ago saw the swearing in as Prime Minister of the former Opposition leader John Kufuor, with the outgoing Prime Minister Jerry Rawlings unexpectedly gracious in defeat. Since then, Kufuor’s popularity has reached near-record levels, and when he stepped down in December 2008 after serving the maximum two terms, Ghanaians wondered if a suitable replacement could be found.
But then, Ghana is different. It’s peak hour in downtown Accra, the Ghanaian capital. Despite the temporary gridlock at Nkrumah Circle there is no road rage and no uncool, and an unearthly feeling of calm prevails. On the footpath, pedestrians are politeness personified, excusing themselves as they pass. No one hassles the visitor, there are very few beggars is to be seen, and not a soul is poorly-dressed.
Nonetheless, this IS still West Africa. There is still dirt. The equator still equates, making day and night seamlessly steamy. And everywhere can be heard the pulsating, happy beat of Afro music, from shop-fronts, balcony bands and a million car stereos.
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