 Trail marker on Mt Namsan / Traditional fan dance, Gyeongju |
 Amidst the ashes and charcoal, the gold and jade ornaments of a dead ruler still lie in place across the long-gone body.
Gyeongju (Kyongju) was the capital of the Silla dynasty which ruled over a unified Korea for hundreds of years. Across the middle of the modern city, four hours south-east of Seoul, spread the huge grassy mounds which each conceal a royal tomb.
"Show respect when leaving," reads the sign, but out in the sunshine, Tumulus Park becomes just another venue for courting couples and other Sunday strollers.
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