 Sea lion on Enderby Island |
Equally rich in natural values, these islands also number amongst the world’s wildest places yet lack the mystique of their inhospitable Australian neighbour. They deserve much wider understanding.
Enderby Island teems with albatross, assorted penguins, petrels, parakeets, gulls, shags and skuas, and its treeless meadows are ablaze with distinctive flowering plants, particularly the subantarctic megaherbs like Bulbinella, with its striking yellow flowers. These are the world’s southernmost plants, evolution pushed to its limits in this punishing environment.
An easy walk on Campbell Island climbs away from Perseverance Harbour, following a wooden boardwalk across hillsides carpeted with tussocks, to reach a high saddle. Many southern royal albatross, snow white, spread across the windswept slopes, hunkered down on their nests to mind an egg whilst their partner is out foraging.
One evening we pass two distant naval frigates travelling in convoy. New Zealand’s governor general, a cabinet minister and a gaggle of scientists are bound for Campbell Island to inaugurate a national bicentennial research program.
Not so fast, chaps. Next day, HMNZS Otago breaks down in “a remote subantarctic fiord” – yes, that’s Perseverance Harbour – and the dignitaries must await transfer to the escort frigate. It’s twenty seconds of fame for a lonely, austerely-beautiful corner of New Zealand’s southernmost islands.
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