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Off the track in old Gipuzkoa

By: Graham Simmons
A member of the Udaltzaingoa (the Basque police force), in the  town of Ordizia (above); Bridge over the once-polluted, now super-scenic Oria River (right)

A member of the Udaltzaingoa (the Basque police force), in the town of Ordizia (above); Bridge over the once-polluted, now super-scenic Oria River (right)

 

   The Spanish province of Guipuzcoa (or Gipuzkoa) is the heartland of Basque identity. In the hinterland of the sun-‘n-surf “capital” San Sebastian (Donostia in the Basque language), the ancient capital Tolosa stands like a citadel on the banks of the picturesque Oria River. It is in Tolosa that the very first radical Basque nationalist was executed by the Guardia Civil, back in 1968. Now, however, the citizens of the town have rallied in support of a more moderate Basque nationalism. This whole region is a scenic delight, worthy of extensive exploration.

 

 
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