 (L) Cathedral of St James at Santiago de Compostella (R) Razorback clams |
 Santiago de Compostella, capital of Galicia, is the goal of devout pilgrims who, since medieval times, have followed the Camino de Santiago across northern Spain to reach the legendary tomb of St James. Five-hundred-year-old hospices in centres such as Santiago now offer five-star hospitality to today’s pilgrims.
This is the way to enjoy Galician barnacles: take hold, twist and withdraw the edible portion, not much bigger than your thumbnail. What’s that? Well, move on to the steamed razor back clams or just hold fire until the three-kilogram baked sea bass makes a grand appearance. The nearest we ever got to the mortifications of the flesh endured by those stoic pilgrims was to cool our heels until after two for yet another four-course lunch to begin…
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