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Sacred Forests of Savannakhet

By: Philip Game
Wild ginger plant

Wild ginger plant, Dong Natad

Dong Natad, the Sacred Forest revered by the people of the sleepy Lao city of Savannakhet, is not exactly the heart of darkness, but there are wondrous things to see – or to avoid – with the help of forest-wise guides, employed through a newly-established ‘eco-trek’ program. We falang (foreigners) are escorted into the forest by the petite Ms Sinakhone Sengphalichanh – “you can call me Nicky” – from the provincial tourism bureau, and Mr Soda Chanla, a member of one of the local forest-dwelling minority peoples.  Before long, the seemingly monotonous forest stretching either side of a puddled track resolves into a medley of individual specks of life. To prove the point, Soda grabs a passing scorpion and eats it – live – with gusto. But, he warns us, never let a beetle piss in your eye!  

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