 Photo 1: Fragrant and frantic, Seoul's food stalls dispense dishes around the clock  Photo 2: The process of transforming cabbage, radish, garlic and red pepper into the beloved national dish kimch'i begins in the early hours |
There are times in Seoul when you are convinced the entire population is simultaneously engaged in purchase - on, under and well above the ground. It is a cascade of commerce which starts in darkness at the Noryangjin fish market south of the Han River and reaches into all of the city's 22 wards and uncountable precincts. Visitors to Seoul can, and do, spend days trawling through vast Great East Gate Market and Great South Gate Market pouncing upon a range of goods well beyond the scope of most open emporiums. If it has been manufactured, woven, forged, cooked or bred in Korea it is on sale at a downtown trader's stall.
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