 East Tibet: A young lady of Derge, resplendent in her finery (above); The Muya Golden Pagoda, in Tagong (right) |
The railway service between Qinghai (western China) and Lhasa that started in mid-2006 could be just what the Tibetan people were hoping to avoid.
But despite the potential cultural mayhem in Tibet proper, Tibetan culture is still hugely alive and well in the neighbouring Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Ganzi, now a part of China’s Sichuan province. Until 1949, this region was a part of Tibet; but it was then absorbed into China. Surprisingly, the authorities have treated Ganzi with a remarkable lack of paranoia. The atmosphere here is totally relaxed – hardly a Chinese soldier is to be seen, the visitor can wander freely without having to worry about permits, and images of the Dalai Lama are found in the most surprising places.
Ganzi is the homeland of the Khampa people - wild-looking, fierce warriors who still carry knives and are ready to use them if excessively provoked. But their ferocity is mixed with a disarming friendliness that captivate all who visit.
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