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'Allo, 'Allo Penang Style

This article details things to do and see in Penang and includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine.


12,001 Miracles at North Korea's Kumgang Mountains

Some of the "12,000 pinnacles" tower over the Manmulsang track, in the Kumgang Mountains

Can the sound of a temple bell call forth a mountain range? It would seem unlikely. But in the case of Korea's "holy of holies" Mount Kumgang (aka Kumgangsan, Geumgangsan National Park, or the Diamond Mountains), nothing appears to be impossible.


24 Hours in the Green Hell

When Roderick Eime packed his bags for the Nürburgring, he thought he was off to cover one of the world’s great Touring, GT and Production Car races. Well he was, sort of..


A Cape to Adventure

Cape York is one of the most enduring 4WD destinations in Australia. Roderick Eime jumps into a showroom condition VW Touareg for the ultimate road test to the top.


A Chinese banquet with a sting in the tail

A rare delicacy in rural Shanxi...

On a whirlwind tour of Shanxi province, Fiona Harper sits down to a Chinese banquet with a sting in the tail


A day in the life of Hang Bo Street

A fruit seller in Hang Bo Street (above); Thê Huc ("Rising Sun") Bridge leads to Ngoc Son Temple, in Lake Hoan Kiem (right)

As Hanoi gears up to celebrate its 1000th anniversary in 2010, city planners are trying to ensure that the city’s fine architectural heritage is not compromised by haphazard development..


A Day on Sisowath Quay

Evening view over Phnom Penh's Sisowath Quay

Sisowath Quay, in Cambodia's capital Phnom Penh, is emerging as one of the world's great boulevards


A New York Christmas

The genial and sassy black Santa across from the Plaza Hotel outside the FAO Schwarz toyshop

In New York, Christmas surprisingly rises above crass commercialism


A Phuket to Ride

Phuket FantaSea, Kamala Beach

Hit the road to explore Thailand’s holiday island of Phuket....


A Postcard From India

A journey from Delhi to the ancient cities of Jaipur, Johdpur, Udaipur and Jalesmere in Rajasthan. Wide selection of images available. If you would like to purchase this story or similar, submit via the form.


A Potent Creole Concoction

Giant tortoises, which roam a number of Seychelles' 115 islands, can weigh in at up to 300kg

The people of the Seychelles - of English, French, Asian and African origin - have blended their influences into one potent Creole concoction.


A Province Divided

UNESCO Peace Messenger Choi Don-Gul explains the meaning of the traditional Korean Sam Jae symbol, denoting co-operation between heaven, earth & humans

Exploring Korea’s border province of Gangwon-do


A quantumly different Bali

First light over Pura Ulan Danu Bratan, on the shores of  Bali's Lake Bratan

In Bali, place and direction are fluid in the extreme- particularly around inland Bedugul


A Reef of Riches

Amateur aquanaut, Roderick Eime, packs his flippers and trunks for an underwater look at Australia's fabled Great Barrier Reef.

 


A safe Anchorage

Guide Marilyn Henry talks about the art of canoe making, in Anchorage's Museum of History & Art

Alaska's vibrant capital is fun in all seasons


A Visit to the Wizards of Fizz

This article continues with details of champagne – the region and the drink.and includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.


A window on the desert

A Perentie (Centralian blue-tongued lizard) at Alice Springs Desert Park

Alice Springs' Desert Park breathes Life into the Australian Outback


Abu Dhabi powers ahead

Abu Dhabi skyline

Abu Dhabi is rapidly emerging as the most powerful of the United Arab Emirates.


Adelaide Reveals its Hip Side

South Australia’s capital sheds its “City of Churches” image


Adventure Queenstown

Parabungy, Queenstown-style

Seeking the ultimate adrenaline rush in New Zealand's South Island


Albany comes of age

Sunset over Albany

Western Australia's oldest town becomes a city


Alice, Art and Adrenalin

Hiking Ormiston Gorge / Aboriginal artist

Alice Springs, in Central Australia, combines cultural and adventure tourism in one exhilarating package.


All dressed up in Harajuku

Glenn A Baker uncovers Goths, Punks, Space Cadets, Little Misses Muffett and Bo Peep among the Harajuku hangers.


All that glitters is probably gold in Kanazawa

The world's first gold-plated house (above); a quiet courtyard garden (right): trying on a golden Noh mask (right)

There’s an unusually large amount of gold in Japan's east coast city of Kanazawa


Along the Zambezi River

Mosi Oa Tunya, aka the Victoria Falls (above); A dugout on the Zambezi River (right)

Near-record rainfalls along the Zambezi River in 2006 and early 2007 have transformed the landscape into a nature wonderland


Alsace: a little piece of Germany in France

A garden 'painter' captures the essence of Alsace, outside St Laurent Church in Wintzenheim

Alsace, just over the German border in France, is a fascinating ethnic mix of languages, cultures and cuisines


Alternative Sydney

Bondi Beach / North Bondi Cliffs

Some fresh ideas for spending time out in Sydney


Amazing Amazonia

Impatient tourist, Roderick Eime, learns the lore of the jungle - and that the jungle is a law unto itself.


America at Barge

Locks on the Lehigh Canal at Easton, Pennsylvania / Lehigh Canal

Within easy reach of America’s eastern cities, you can drift back to a gentler era, turning the clock back to the dawn of the industrial era, before the sparks and steam of the railways replaced the gentler motions of water pouring into locks and mules plodding along towpaths.


Among the Turtles

A giant green sea turtle deposits a clutch of soft-shelled, mucus-covered eggs on a Pulau Selingaan beach

The island of Pulau Selingaan in the Sulu Sea off Malaysian Borneo is a declared marine park that sits in ancient turtle migration and breeding lanes.


Amour on the Amur

Khabarovsk shipping terminal, on the Amur River

Russia's surprising city of Khabarovsk, on the Amur RIver


Angkor OR Wat?

Ta Prohm / Naga balustrades, Angkor Thom

Call it the peace dividend: the ancient capital of the Khmer Empire now teems with tourists. Here are some tips for getting the best from one of Asia’s great monuments - and a different way to get there from Phnom Penh, the capital.


Another Water village

Fumigating houses, in the "new" Malay section of Buli Sim Sim water village

The over-water stilt village of Buli Sim-Sim (Sabah, Malaysia)


Arabian Nights

The Middle East, in particular Saudi Arabia, is hot. Saudi is one of the hardest places in the world to visit. The country does not accept tourists and in fact has no such thing as a tourist visa, much less a tourist office. But things are changing says Karen Halabi.

 


Around the Bend

Telegraph Island

‘Going Troppo’ and where better than on an utterly remote desert island at the farthest extremity of the Arabian Peninsula?


Ayutthaya: Scenes from a Glorious Past

Statue fragments at Wat Rajaburana, Ayutthaya

A tour through the relics of Thailand's glory days


Back to the Big Blue

Violin and bouzouki lend atmosphere to a Mayday picnic, at Agios Pavros Point

on Amorgos Island, Greece


Badlands of Dakota

The Badlands of South Dakota

The American West opens up ahead as you cross the Missouri, westbound to South Dakota


Bandung Beauties

Bandung’s biggest drawcard is ugly, smells bad and often can’t even be seen at all.


Bangkok's new Ball-game

One of Bangkok's new Sky-trains (above): the Sky Bar on Level 66 of State Tower (right); A boat on the Chao Phraya River (below)

Bangkok's new network of sky-trains, underground trains, river ferries and dedicated bus lanes makes getting around this sprawling city a breeze.


Bangkok’s Bizarre Bazaar

Bangkok’s Chatujak Weekend Market - perhaps the largest open air bazaar in all of Asia - is a maze of amazing bargains.


Beached on the Batavia Coast

Geraldton's unique banded lighthouse

Western Australia's sparkling Batavia Coast, running north from Perth to Geraldton, is now more accessible than ever


Beaches of the Maldives

Reetha Rai Beach

The Maldives is a beach destination every inch as good as the postcard-perfect images you’ve seen


Beauty and the Boche

Main Street, Hahndorf (in the Adelaide Hills)

German Heritage in the Adelaide Hills


Bedouins to Buicks

A camel driver tends his herd.... not all Saudis embrace modernisation from the West

On the surface, Saudi Arabia appears a lot like other Muslim countries such as Iran or Iraq. There are many similarities - the wall-to-wall desert and the women clad head to toe in abayyas, but then you start to notice the differences - the obvious wealth and corresponding lack of poverty, the big flashy cars and the obsession with everything American.


Belem - city on the equator

The surprising city of Belém, gateway to the lower Amazon


Best of... Bahrain

This Singapore-sized island kingdom offers the ideal stopover introduction to the Middle East - sunshine and sparkling turquoise waters, smart shopping and a few sights, six hours short of London.


Beyond Glam in Kampong Gelam

The imposing Sultan Mosque, as seen from Bussorah Street in Kampong Gelam

Singapore has a fascinating cultural history. Part of this history can be appreciated on a guided walk through Kampong Gelam – also known as the “Arab Street” precinct.


Big Skies, Big Fish, Big Plans

Eyre Peninsula emu

Rub shoulders with millionaire fish farmers and other larger-than-life denizens of the Outback around the rugged coast of South Australia’s little-known Eyre Peninsula


Bonjour India

For nearly 300 years, France had a presence in southern India. Four Former French enclaves still have an aura of colonial charm.


Bookworms Make Hay

Friendly booksellers

Philip Game meanders along the Welsh border in search of... books


Borderlines

Explore the mystique, the adrenaline rush, the paranoia even, peculiar to border towns around the world


Bravo, Barcelona!

Hospital Sant Pau / In Las Ramblas

They’re native-born Spaniards but their first language is Catalan, not Spanish. For what it’s worth, the bullrings have fallen into disrepair.


Breaking into Brisbane

A barge offers scenic canal tours, at Brisbane's Southbank recreation park

Queensland's surprising capital re-invents itself


Bridging the great divide

The Bernina Express

Switzerland’s Bernina Railway turns 95


Brisbane: Fresh-Air Fun

On the Brisbane River / Quadbiking at Tangalooma

Here are five (or more) fresh-air things to do in and around Brisbane


Brunei's rainforest and reef riches

Glenn A Baker is blown away by Brunei - and finds much more than oil and Sultans.


Bulgaria, Europe's Best-Kept Secret

Rila Monastery / Peasant farmer, Bulgaria

Forget the old Iron Curtain nasties; one of Europe's least-known countries is one of the most scenic and hospitable


By boat and beer-glass through Bavaria

The Bavarian river-port of Regensburg after a freak snowstorm

Munich's Oktoberfest beer festival is justly world-renowned. But the rest of Bavaria has an equally enticing beerscape.


By fork and glass through the Ardèche:

View over the Gorges du Chassezac, from the Church of Notre Dame de Thines

On the "Stevenson Trail" in south-eastern France


Byron Bay - a town from another planet?

Best feet forward in Byron Bay (above); Taking in a perfect Byron Bay sunset (right); a dazzling performance at the East Coast Blues and Roots Festival (below); only the most literate come to the Byron Bay Writers' Festival (below right)

Visitors to Byron Bay, the most easterly town on the world's most easterly continent, sometimes wonder if they are still on planet earth.


Byron Bay Dreaming

Perfect surf breaks, world class food and a laidback lifestyle unlike anywhere else. It must be Byron.


Caloundra: the Sunshine Coast's "poor cousin"

Kayaking the Pumicestone Passage, between the Queensland mainland and Bribie Island

Caloundra, on Queensland's Sunshine Coast, is powering ahead


Cambodia: Confronting the demons…

The Bayon, Angkor Wat / Cambodian family

Phnom Penh tour guide Bun Nguon knows every step of the bone-shaking road journey from the capital up Route 5 to Battambang: from the Khmer Rouge labour camps of the Cardamom Mountains he trudged 400 kilometres home and pick up the pieces of his life.


Cambridge: Punting on the Cam

Whilst the British may disparage ‘Oxbridge’ as the home of an ivory tower elite, England’s two venerable university cities are quite different places.

 

 


Camels and Country Kindness in Cunnamulla

Willy Cooma, "The Camel Man" (above); Kayaking on the Warrego River (right); Turnworth Bore, a spa-in-the-making (above)

The sign at the town entrance tells it all: “Welcome to Cunnamulla, settled in the Dreamtime.” Aussie towns don’t get much older than that. Nor do they get much more welcoming and community-spirited.

 


Canberra, a living art space

A funky sculpture keeps watch over Canberra's Lake Burley Griffin

Australia's capital bristles with artworks - both good and bad


Cape Colossal

Try and describe the unique southern African metropolis of Cape Town without mentioning its imposing Table Mountain backdrop and it would be like describing an elephant without its trunk.


Carthage, Kasbah and Couscous

Carthage / Sousse, Tunisia

From Roman amphitheatre to Muslim Medina, ancient Carthage to Saharan salt lakes, Tunisia offers much more than sunshine and sand.


Castaway Islands

Few people think of Shetland as part of Britain. And that is exactly what the locals want, for these hardy independent northerners see themselves as more Scandinavian than Scottish and relish their ties with Norway.


Charms of Cairo

Topped by a white sail, a traditional felucca slowly and silently makes its way down the Nile. Just beyond, the cacophony and chaos of Cairo couldn’t be more contrasting.


China Games

Pudong skyline

KAREN HALABI visits Shanghai and discovers the new modern face of 21st century China, where things are changing at a rapid pace.


Cholon: from crowded to jam-packed

A colourful flower stall at An Dong, in Cholon

The chaotic Chinese quarter of Ho Chi Minh City, in Vietnam


Cities Of Sound

Sun Studios' shopfront, Memphis

Glenn A. Baker presents a Bakers' Dozen of cities worthy of cruising through, with all antennae twitching


City at the End of the World

"The world's southernmost city has the look of a frontier town. The architecture is eclectic, with buildings in progress, some half finished, and many roads pockmarked, obviously damaged by the severe weather. The warmer season, roughly from November to March, seems hardly long enough to catch up on all the jobs which accumulate during those colder months when, in the depth of winter, there are only seven hours of daylight each day."


City of Spas

Soak up the waters in Budapest, a city famous for its health and thermal spas, and the only place in Europe you’ll find Turkish baths, says Karen Halabi.


Civilised Seisia

Having sailed along the coast of Arnhem Land, traversing the Gulf of Carpentaria and into one of the most remote towns on the Australian coast, Fiona Harper hungrily anticipates a return to civilisation, dropping anchor at Seisia on Cape York, Queensland.

 


Codfish, Cabrales and Cacao: a culinary tour of Madrid

This is the way to enjoy Galician barnacles: take hold, twist and withdraw the edible portion, not much bigger than your thumbnail.


Cokeless in Colombia

A Fitzcarraldo-style river steamer, on the Amacaiyacú River

Colombia's Amazon settlements belie the country's image as a drug-'n-crime capital


Colours of Gujarat

Gujarat is the land of the Mahatma - the birthplace of Ghandi - and the only place on Earth where you can still see the Asiatic Lion, says Karen Halabi.


Coober Pedy - River of Illusions

Underground home of Crocodile Harry

The deserts of northern South Australia produce most of the world's precious opal, gouged out of the ground by ruggedly-independent miners.


Cool Adventures

There are some things you should do once in a lifetime. Well, that's what I was told when they suggested sleeping out on the ice in Antarctica.


Cotswold Gold

Arlington Row, Bibury

Exquisitely manicured, the halcyon Cotswold villages of Painswick, Broadway, Bibury and Bourton-on-the-Water could easily be stage sets.


Couples, not cowboys, rule in Kuta

Celebrating a Balinese wedding / Bowl of flower petals

The villa accommodation boom is leading Bali's renaissance as a top-end destination.


Crocodiles can raise welts

Villagers of Puruknawi village manhandle a giant crocodile at the Sepik River Crocodile Festival (above); a fine example of crocodile tattooing (rihgt)

Crocodiles can raise welts in more ways than one, at the Sepik River Crocodile Festival


Crossing the island of Rarotonga

Approaching The Needle, Rarotonga

The four-hour cross island walk began as a single lane road winding into the foothills, past ramshackle villages struggling to keep the fast growing jungle at bay. Rarotongan village kids ran beside the road giggling and waving while the dogs were as laid back as the adult villagers, barely lifting their heads in the tropical heat to give us more than a brief glance as we passed by.

 

Fiona Harper fights tropical lethargy in the Cook Islands.


Cruise Control

This article describes the P&O Pacific Princess cruise along Australia’s eastern seaboard to Cairns and the Whitsunday Islands. It includes information on the accommodation provided, seafaring language (staterooms, not cabins), the abundant food and even a peek at the galley, as well as the various shore trips, and an updated factfile.


Cruising Lake Barrine

Morning mists over Lake Barrine

Queensland's lush rainforest retreat


Cruising Tasmania's Gordon River – a ‘No Dam’ Wonder!

Thanks to the actions of protesters a quarter of a century ago, we can now enjoy the pristine World Heritage forest of western Tasmania. Roderick Eime investigates this 'no dam' wonder.


Cuba Calls

Dancers at the famed Tropicana, in Havana

There is a constant, inescapable sensuality to the entire Cuban experience.


Cycling Tasmania

The village of Strahan, on Tasmania's rugged west coast, is gateway to the awesome Gordon River World Heritage Area

Cycling Tasmania's rugged west coast is a real challenge - in contrast to the gently rolling hills of the island's east coast


Delicious Mauritius

Mauritius was uninhabited when the Dutch landed on the Indian Ocean island in 1598. Only awkward looking flightless birds greeted their arrival.


Delta Dawn - along the Mekong in Vietnam

Originating in the Tibetan highlands the mighty Mekong River nears the end of its 4500 km journey as it flows through the extensive delta lands of southern Vietnam.


Desert Sands

Camel riding in the desert (above); A street in Hofuf (below); Digging for desert roses (right)

Saudi Arabia is a country of vast distances and huge expanses of desert, where ancient forts and citadels dot the landscape.


Destination: Tahiti

For a truly invigorating experience, take a trip to this warm island paradise in French Polynesia. Visit the colorful Papeete markets, swim with friendly stingrays, find a deserted island or have breakfast delivered to your own over water bungalow.


Did UFOs visit China?

A 2,000 year-old bronze head, in the Sanxingdui Museum (above); The "yin-yang circle", at the Sanxingdui Museum (right)

Archaeologists have yet to determine the origin of the bizarre bronze artefacts in Sichuan's Sanxingdui Museum


Dili's Door Opens Again

The young, open and optimistic face of the new nation of East Timor

In East Timor, the world's newest nation


Divine Docklands

Fiona Harper questions the wisdom of the old proverb 'it is better to travel than to arrive' after a coastal passage that ends in Melbourne's Docklands district.


Don't Climb

This is Uluru, not any old rock in the centre of Australia. The world's largest pebble (that's official) was, until 17 years ago, universally known as Ayers Rock, named for the boss of the white discoverer, Gosse. It’s the world's largest cleanskin monolith


Don’t worry, be happy in Havana, Cuba

Posing as Che Guevara in Habana Vieja (above);  Dancing in the streets of Habana Vieja (right); Old buildings and old cars are icons of Cuba (below)

As Fidel Castro fades from the Cuban stage, now is the best time to visit


Durga Puja tells Calcutta's story

In preparation for the Durga Puja festival, statues are dressed at Kumartuli, in northern Calcutta

When they changed Calcutta's name to Kolkata, the city persona changed just a little. But what remained unchanged is the staggering Durga Puja festival in mid-October, when millions of Calcuttans take to the streets


East Timor, Asia's Newest Nation

Boy fishing / Fatucama Beach, Dili

From an obscure colony to a war zone patrolled by UN peacekeepers… it sounds like somewhere in Africa. But the Democratic Republic of Timor Leste lies almost at Asia's furthest extremity, one half of an island a short flight from Bali or from northern Australia.


Eastern and Oriental: Secrets of London's East End

Foodies and fashionistas delight at the Spitalfields market in London's East End


Eat, Pray, Love, Bali-style

Warung Biah Biah, Ubud

Where else to Eat, Pray, (and) Love? Elizabeth Gilbert’s personal journey in search of self-fulfilment reached its conclusion in Ubud, the spiritual heart of Bali.


Echoes of elegance

Yachting and golfing go hand in hand with the opening of the Whitsunday Islands' first resort golf course and sophisticated yacht club. Perfect for superyacht owners with a penchant for sweeping fairways amid hilltop greens, stylish elegance arrives in the Whitsundays.

 

Fiona Harper takes on 18 holes at Hamilton Island Golf Club, followed by sundowners overlooking Dent Passage at Hamilton Island Yacht Club


Echuca, historic river port on the Murray

Paddlesteamer on the Murray at Echuca

At Echuca, where the Campaspe and the Goulburn run into the mighty Murray, floods –and drought – were always been a way of life for Australia's largest inland river port.


Edge of the Kingdom

Thomas E King journeys from the Thai island of Koh Samui, in the south of the country, to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in the far north-west


Edinburgh: Ring in the New

Georgian townhouses in Edinburgh's New Town

Edinburgh’s New Town remains arguably the world’s finest example of Georgian town planning and architecture, but two centuries on, the austere terraced townhouses and the luxuriant private parks wear a comfortable patina.


Ekasup: Polynesia in Melanesia

A Futuna Island warrior, at Vanuatu's Ekasup Cultural Village

The people of Futuna Island, in Vanuatu, are the Polynesians in this overwhelmingly Melanesian country


England Raises the Bar

Fresh local berries, picnic at Berkeley Castle, UK

Country England has never been so good.


Escaping Shanghai

A quiet canal in old Zhujiajiao, a 1,700 year old market town near Shanghai

Five quick getaways from the world's most dynamic city


Essaouira: Colour-Coded Morocco

Bab Doukkala / The Old City, Essaouira

From the fiery brick-red of Marrakech to the lemon tints of Meknes, Morocco’s older cities seem to be colour-coded.


Estonia's mystic countryside

The sacred Lake Pühajärv

Estonia is much more than just its mediaeval capital Tallinn


Ethiopia - a country from another eon

Ethiopian kids ham it up for the camera

Ethiopia has its own religion, a non-colonial history, and a cultural life-support system that could come from another planet. .


Eureka!

Eureka flag

At dawn on December 3, 1854, thirty or more men died when British redcoats and colonial police attacked a makeshift stockade manned by rebel miners on the gold fields west of Melbourne.

 


Europe is not designed for Speed

The MS Amadagio in Dürnstein, Austria (above); Fine cuisine aboard the Amadagio (right); Unseasonal spring snow in Germany (below)

When a cruise ship gets stuck on Germany's Main River, the result becomes an exercise in "What if...?"


Exit Zimbabwe, onstage Zambia

An impala in the wild, at Kafue National Park

As Zimbabwe fades off the tourist stage, the new star on the southern Africa stage is Zambia.


Eye of the Mediterranean

The Fishing Boats of Malta.

The coastlines of the Maltese islands of Gozo, Malta and Comino are littered with harbours bays and tiny fishing villages where old men sit in the afternoon sun untangling fishing nets…

 


Falling in Love with Sea Lions in the Abrolhos

They say the best holidays are those with an element of romance. They also say that sometimes the best romances are those that end with the holiday, leaving nothing but happy memories. That's the kind of romance you get when you fall for sea lions, discovers Fiona Harper.


Far East, Wild West

Kamchatkan brown bear on the prowl / Volcano views

Kamchatka is the show-stopper of Russia's Far East, a 'wild west' frontier region


Far-flung to the Falklands

Penguins of the Falkland Islands

Over 25 years on from the war between Britain and Argentina that claimed nearly a thousand lives, the Falkland Islands town of Stanley - the world's smallest and most remote capital - is once again an important port.


Fiji for Families

Fiji's many island resorts truly offer a little tropical bliss for everyone. And, for special treatment, be sure to bring the kids.


Fiji's Other Side

Lone rider, Viti Levu/Kava ceremony

Discover a do-it-yourself Fiji away from the big-name resorts...


Finding attitude in Hungary

The 1000-year-old Basilica of Esztergom (above); a grim Soviet-era statue in a theme park on the outskirts of Budapest (right); an old lady sells embroidery on the street

Following the collapse of Communism in 1990, Hungary was faced with the task of finding a new identity for itself. Unlike some other former eastern bloc countries, Hungary has "capitalised" on its Communist past.


Finding Dylan Thomas in Old South Wales

Dylan Thomas' grave (above); Dylan Thomas in America (right); a beached marina at Tenby in South Wales (right)

You don't have to go searching for Dylan Thomas in Old South Wales. Quite the contrary - Dylan Thomas will come looking for YOU.


Finding Green in Taiwan

The pagoda of Hsiang-te Temple towers over Taroko Gorge (above); The bizarre rock formations of Yeliu (right); Wind-power Park, near Kaohsiung (below)

Get out of Taiwan's main cities and you'll encounter a nature-feast without peer


Flinders Keepers

You know that there's something special about a place when you've hardly arrived there, and already you are planning how you'll return. Soon. Flinders Island is like that.


Flowers in the Mire

A statue in "Love Park", by the waterfront of Miraflores

The vibrant Miraflores precinct is one of Lima's redeeming features


Follow That Eagle

Bearfence Mountain / Rural Virginia

What better summertime drive than to follow Virginia’s Appalachian parkways through some of the finest countryside in the eastern United States?


Fortifying yourself

A quiet corner of Nizwa Fortress

On the "Fortress Trail" in the Sultanate of Oman


Fourwheeling Oman

Zammal ('Snake') canyon, in Oman's Wadi Bani Awf

Offroad in Oman reveals a stunning landscape of rugged mountains, lush green valleys and tortuous rock formations


France's Not-So-Well-Kept Secret

In the last few years, New Caledonia has become less reliant on tourist arrivals from France and more regionally focussed, whilst stubbornly retaining its quaint French colonial heritage.


Fraser Island: Home of the Badtjala Nation

A dingo basks in the sunshine, on Fraser Island

The Aboriginal heritage of the world's largest sand island


French Confection

Rent a farm cottage somewhere in Normandy, Brittany or the Loire, then spend the next week exploring towns and villages harking back to William the Conqueror.


French without Fears

Al fresco lunch / Magalas at sunrise

Fancy setting up a bucolic retreat in the French countryside?


Friendly Fiji

This article outlines the various activities on the islands and describe the atmosphere of this tropical South Seas country.


From bagpipes to opium pipes on the Victorian goldfields

Beechworth's Old Telegraph Station

Beechworth's colourful Celtic and Chinese heritage


From Bangalore to Bengaluru

Barista Coffee Terrace: the new face of fast-pace Bengaluru (Bangalore)

Back to the future in India's IT hub


From JJJ to AAA: Dundee re-invents itself

Painter Fred Livingstone at work in his Dundee studio

Scotland's waterfront city of Dundee used to be known as “the city of jute, jam and journalism”. Now. all this has changed


From the Sublime to the Magnificent

Statue of JS Bach in his birth town of Eisenach, in the former East Germany

Explorations of Bach country, in the former East Germany


From troubles to treasures in the Solomon Islands

The jetty at Sanbis Island Resort (above); a dazzling array of fish in Gizo town market (right); a yacht off Lola Island (below); a traditional sailboat in Vonovona Lagoon (below right)

After civil strife, earthquake and tsunami, the Solomon Islands are on the rebound


From Water Village to “Grand-on-Land”

Sultan Omar Saifúddin Mosque towers over the Brunei River

The astonishing architecture of Brunei


Game For Anything

A tree-house in Hwange National Park

Hwange National Park is the largest and best gameviewing area in Zimbabwe and, some say, all of Africa. With roughly 15,000 sq km of protected parklands, it's around the size of Wales or Belgium. During a short stay here it is not impossible to see up to 50 different species of animal and bird life...


Gasp… splutter… cough…

Sulphur mine labourer / Ijen Crater, East Java

Quick, wet your shirt and cover your mouth!


Gems of Gibraltar

Looming out of azure blue waters at the gateway to the Mediterranean Sea is one of the world's most unmistakable landmarks, the Rock of Gibraltar.


Gentlemen, start your engines...

The passengers have clattered downstairs to the ferry’s dimly-lit hold, squeezing back into dozens of cars, trucks and vans which have spent the journey packed into line, front to back. Now… not exactly the chequered flag, but the ramp has lowered into place, the crewman waves each vehicle forward in turn. We accelerate up onto the ramp, out into the daylight, clattering ashore onto virgin territory.


Geordie Land Re-invents itself

Central Exchange Buildings has one of finest shopping arcades in the country (above);  The Angel of the North sculpture symbolises the new look region (right); Newcastle's Grey Street has been voted ‘best street in Britain (below)

Newcastle, "capital" of north-east England, has for the fourth consecutive year been nominated as the country’s favourite city-break destination


German Humour is no laughing matter

The cloisters of Wartburg Castle, Erfurt

A road trip through the new Germany


Ghana - the art of peaceful change

A young lady at Makola Market, in the Ghanaian capital Accra

They said it could never happen – a peaceful democratic transition in West Africa. But Ghana, which has just celebrated its 50th anniversary of independence, is different.


Ghana takes its music to the world

The Kekeli Dance Ensemble in rehearsal

Ghanaian drumming and dancing are the biggest things on the world music stage


Gibraltar, Rock of a Crumbling Empire

Gibraltar / Barbary Apes

Will it still be there next year?


Gimme shelter...

Wallace's Hut, Bogong High Plains

Many of the rough-hewn shelter huts scattered across the Australian Alps represent the legacy of earlier, more innocent visitors, including the now-banished mountain cattlemen.


Glasgow's wee secret

An unlikely cultural capital, Glasgow's uncomprisingly Victorian streetscape provides the setting for an assemblage of fine galleries and museums.


Glimpses of the Archipelago

A colourful wooden windmill pierces the skies, on Djurgården Island in Stockholm Harbour

Stockholm's glorious (but short) summer


Global warming - for the birds?

A colourfully-clad tribal lady cuts grass in Keoladeo Nationala Park, where once there was deep water (above); one of the few remaining wetland sections of the park (right)

Rajasthan's World Heritage Keoladeo National Park is no longer bird-friendly, as its wetlands dry up


Go Clubbing

This article details the history and background of Lindeman Island as well as what is available on the island and includes information on accommodation provided, the food,and activities for all ages.


Godzone country

Submerged trees in Lake Kariba, on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia

"Welcome to my home", said the beaming taxi driver at Harare airport in such warm, lilting tones that I should have realised the pull had already started. "To my home" I kept thinking on the drive into the Zimbabwean capital, not to Harare or even Zimbabwe, but "to my home". In all my years of travelling, no-one had ever said that to me before.

 

 


Going around the loop in New Zealand’s South Island

The scenic Waimakereri River becomes a raging torrent after heavy rains

A loop trip from Christchurch taking in the South Island’s two main mountain passes takes in some of the world’s finest high-country scenery


Great Alpine Road: a road for all seasons

Victoria's touring route for all seasons


Great Leaping Lemurs

When the vast island continent of Madagascar wrenched itself free from the mighty Gondwanaland tens of millions of years ago, it took with it a veritable Noah's Ark of plant and animal species.


Great Ocean Road

Twelve Apostles / Surf beach, Great Ocean Road

Experience one of Australia's most dramatic landscapes: a cliff-hanging scenic drive around Victoria's southwestern coastline on the Great Ocean Road.


Green Spain

Forget the flamenco. What about some stirring reels from a Galician piper? Spain is a land of many parts, the more so since the blessed departure of the dour Franco years.


Greenland

Stories from Greenland by Glenn A. Baker


Guam, Gateway to Micronesia

At first sight it’s an unlikely destination: Waikiki West perhaps, an Hispanic Hawaii, America transplanted to a dot in the ocean due north of New Guinea.


Gyeongju, Korea: Kings in Grass Castles

Trail marker on Mt Namsan / Traditional fan dance, Gyeongju

Here lie kings... inside the grassy hemispherical mound the temperature drops as the passage burrows into the heart of the tumulus.


Hanging around in Slovakia

Neck traction - just one of the treatments at a Slovakian spa

If your idea of a holiday is hanging by the neck in a medieval style torture chamber then a Slovakian spa is for you.


Hawaii of the Orient

A gushing waterfall in the lagoon pool at the Sanya Marriot Resort

Hainan is one of China’s fastest emerging holiday destinations.


Heart of Gold

General store / Welcome Stranger monument, Dunolly

Victoria’s heart of gold is a land of faded glories, of dreams which won’t quite die.


Henan, Heart and Soul of China

White Horse Temple, Henan

Since the time of the Shang the Yellow River basin has nurtured one Chinese dynasty after another, their capitals rising and falling in turn.


Hip Thai Resorts

Thai'd of Mediocrity? These Hip New Thai Hotels will leave you inspired. And not only are they super cool, they beat with a very warm heart.

 

 

 

 

 


Ho Chi Minh City: don't mention the war!

Saigon scenes

Bac Ho, Uncle Ho, presides over the square facing the gingerbread French town hall and the red flag flies above the dictator’s palace which the Viet Cong tanks gate-crashed in April 1975.


Ho, Ho, Ho Chi Minh

Hanoi Opera House / Street scene

Hanoi, where the late leader lies in state, is the true Ho Chi Minh City


Hong Kong – The Great Chinese Melting Pot

The vibrant and bustling seaport of Hong Kong has enjoyed a prominent part in the grand opera of Asia. Roderick Eime travelled to Hong Kong for a whirlwind tour of the sights, sounds and smells of the former British colony and discovered a bright and brassy city with a long and colourful history


Icebreakers: Pushing the Limits of Adventure

The once treacherous seas of the polar regions are almost tamed by these modern marvels. Roderick Eime ventures aboard the world's most famous passenger-carrying icebreaker.


Imperial Golf

A fairway at Brunei’s Empire Hotel and Country Club

The golf course at Brunei’s Empire Hotel and Country Club is one of the world's most challenging courses.


In Bohemian Rhapsody

A panorama of the Bohemian city of Cesky Krumlov (above); a juggler in Cesky Krumlov (right)

Bohemia, in the Czech Republic, has it all - ancient town squares, Gothic spires and bell towers, castles. music and lazy rivers to boot.


In Kutch's clutches

Desert camp at the Sharad Utsav Festival (above); Entrance to the Pragmahal Palace, in Bhuj (right)

The human fabric of the remote Kutch region of Gujarat provides a dazzling spectacle.


In Search of Seoul

Pavilion at the Changgyeonggung Palace / Preparing tteokbokgi snack food, Seoul

Coming to terms with the South Korean capital


In Search of the Perfect Paella

An authentic Paella Valenciana, at Valencia's famous La Pepica restaurant (above); Saffron, an essential ingredient of an authentic Paella Valenciana, is on sale at Valencia's Central Market (right)

The Spanish city of Valencia, renowned as the home of paella, is also known as "the rice bowl of Europe"


In Shanxi, Loess is More

Hanging Monastery, Shanxi

The province "West of the Mountains" is a land of loess, the rugged dun-coloured country sandwiched between the Great Wall and the Yellow River.


In the Footsteps of Harry Nanya

Les Taylor, of Harry Nanya Tours, plays didjeridu at the "Walls of China", in Lake Mungo National Park

Australia's legendary "Black Outlaw"


In the Wild - Africa in widescreen

Elephants at a waterhole in Hwange National Park (above); typical tree-house accommodation (below)

A live geography lesson in wide screen, Zimbabwe is an ideal place to take kids on a family holiday but check first - many lodges won't take children under 12 and they often aren't allowed on game drives.


India's Golden Triangle - A Beginner's Guide

First time travel to India can be a daunting experience. Debutant Roderick Eime shares his experience and tries to alleviate your concerns about travel to the mysterious subcontinent.


Inhaling the Huon

Stepping into the workshop at the Wooden Boat Centre, waterside on the Huon River at Franklin in southern Tasmania, Fiona Harper inhales the sweet aroma of Huon Pine permeating the air.


Isaan - Gateway to Indochina

A dancer in the village of Ban Nong Hoi Yai (above); Pottery is a traditional craft of the Isaan region (right)

Isaan, in the far north-east of Thailand, is one of the most little-known parts of the country


Island of Stone

As Karen Halabi discovers, Malta is an island built entirely of stone. The buildings, the streets, the cliffs and the whole island are the same honey-coloured stone on this small island which lies in the middle of the Mediterranean.


Island Time

A picture postcard image of Fiji.

Fiji’s islands are a dream escape for anyone, where you can laze under a palm tree or snorkel to your heart’s delight.


Israel - Tiny but Treasure-filled

The Dome of the Rock and Wailing Wall, in Jersusalem

Israel's small size belies its wealth of historical treasures


It's New in Singapore

I’m soaring over the Lion City! Tucked away in air conditioned comfort some 165 metres above a dynamic city my 360° view from the Singapore Flyer, Asia’s largest observation wheel, encompasses the ever changing cityscape and well beyond to parts of neighbouring Malaysia and Indonesia.


It's wild - but is it food?

The Hokitika Wildfoods Festival, held every year in March on the rugged West Coast of New Zealand's South Island, takes gastronomy to new limits


Jakarta Jaunt

Crowning a soaring column in the green heart of Jakarta is a ‘flame’ that never flickers. It can’t because it’s made of gold!


Jakarta: The Big Durian

Pinisi at Sunda Kelapa / Street musicians, Jakarta

South East Asia’s favourite fruit provides an apt metaphor for a city which no longer deserves to be dismissed as squalid, dirty and charmless. However, a rich feast of sticky, custard-like flesh awaits those eager enough to withstand the noxious smell of this football-sized fruit and wrest open the formidable spiked carcass.


Java Brew

Losari Coffee Plantation Resort

A venerable coffee plantation has been reborn as a boutique resort in the mountains of central Java


Jungle Train

Kelantan under water, 1990 / Dabong Station, 2008

To travel aboard Malaysia's East Coast Railway is more important than to arrive.


Jute's just revenge

Rolls of jute on display in Dundee's Verdant Works jute museum

Jute, once the mainstay of Dundee's economy, is staging a surprising comeback in some surprising places.


Kaohsiung gears up for the Games

"Fish jumping over Dragon Gate", the mascot of Kaohsiung

Kaohsiung, venue for the 2009 World Games, cleans up its act


Karelia Sweet

The sun sets magically across a lake, at Kerimaa Golf Resort and Holiday Village

Karelia, between Finland and Russia, opens up its borders


Keeping a sense of Hiiumaa

An old windmill at Luidja, on Hiiumaa Island (above); the manor house of the "Mad Baron" Ungern-Sternberg (right)

Ghosts still roam parts of Estonia's Hiiumaa Island, renowned for its wilderness and heritage.


Khao Lak rises again

The Tsunami Mermorial, at Baan Nam Khem

Thailand's Andaman Coast, three years after the tsunami


Korea Moves

Korean schoolkids are keen to learn English


Korea: A Treasure Trove of Natural and Cultural Beauty

When stacked up against regional tourism powerhouses like Japan and China, Korea is often not considered a contender. Yet on closer inspection, any visitor will discover a rich, historic culture quite distinct from its neighbours.


Kuala Lumpur: from Kampong to Capital

Suria KLCC Complex / Malay healer consults with patients

A booming city which was once a tin miners’ camp; Kuala Lumpur mingles Malay, Chinese, Indian and other cultural strains in a 21st century metropolis sometimes futuristic.


Kuwait: Where the Desert Blooms

The soaring Kuwait Towers are a symbol of a nation on the move.

One of the world's newer tourist destinations has actually been receiving visitors since the 4th century BC.


Land of the Flat White Crowd

FONDLY referred to as 'Windy Wellington", the winds of change have swept through New Zealand's capital, making it arguably the country's most sophisticated and funkiest city.


Lands of the Lingering Sun

Trakai Castle, Lithuania / Flower seller, Riga

Come clean. You don't know where the Baltic countries fit on the map, or which capital is which. I didn't either.


Laucala Langour

There is something decidedly exotic about hopping onboard a private jet and being whisked away to a far-flung South Pacific Island. Particularly so when your destination has been declared one of the 100 most beautiful hotels and resorts of the world.

 

Reporting from an exclusive retreat on a privately owned island in Fiji, Fiona Harper discovers that perfection has a new name. It's called Laucala Island.


Lava Quest

Trek with Roderick Eime amongst the smoldering outflows around Hawaii's Kilauea volcano


Let Sleeping Gods Lie

Some mysteries are best left unsolved. Roderick Eime laments that the enduring mystery of Easter Island's great moai is solved.


Let The Games Begin!

This article details the lead-up to the games, where to stay in the city and other things to see and do before and after the Games.


Liberated in Libya

A proud Tuareg near Ghadames (above); the impressive amphitheatre at Leptis Magna (right); Waiting in the desert for sunset, near Ghadames (below)

Libya reveals its astonishing secrets


Life in the Round

This story runs to around 1000 words and explains what goes on inside the world’s strangest houses, how to find them, and what else there is to see in the vicinity.


Life IS art in Japan’s Hida district

A tree-lined canal in Takayama

Japan's Hida region is Japan's heartland


Like a Maharajah

Rajasthan is full of colourful characters such as this snake charmer.

Live like a modern day Maharajah when you visit Rajasthan.


Living well in Budapest

Budapest bridge

Buda and Pest, facing each other across the Danube, together make up one of Europe's most intriguing capitals


Luang Prabang, capital of a vanished kingdom, returns to life

Wat Xieng Thong /  Monks collecting alms

Slumbering beside the Mekong amidst the mountains of northern Laos, Luang Prabang must be the only Asian city in which one hardly need look before crossing the street.


Lust for Dust - An Outback Gem

Rummage through the rocks and pebbles around Rubyvale and you might just turn up a small fortune. Here in outback Queensland, the streets are paved, not with gold, but with emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Share a yarn with the drifters and fossickers who came for a weekend and stayed for life.


Mahouts' Course

"Good girl, Yom!" (above); Mother and adopted son, at the Mahouts' Course Elephant Camp (right)

There is no elegant way to climb up onto an elephant. Tricia Welsh learns this at a mahout’s course in Northern Thailand.


Making trails through the Aube

Renoir's painting Les Laveuses adorns the bank of the scenic River Ource

Art and nature make for a heady mix in eastern France


Malacca, Melaka, Malaysia

Christ Church / Trishaw rider, Melaka

A relative backwater today, Malacca formed the crucible for much of the recorded history of this multiracial nation


Malawi: Africa for Beginners

Nyawu Dancer / On Lake Malawi

On a long, hot stretch of road I’d begun to nod off, when the bus stopped abruptly. A pair of phantasmagorical figures, masked and costumed in feathers, technicolour rags and war-paint were prancing at the roadside, strolling players in search of a gig.


Malta for Motorheads

Maltese veteran car enthusiast

Waiting for a bus is rarely fun, but on the Mediterranean island nation of Malta...


Manaus - where Brazil draws its breath

Gardens of the Tropicana Hotel, Manaus

The city of Manaus, capital of the Brazilian province of Amazonas, is growing so fast that no-one can keep up with the changes taking place.


Mauritius – Sundays and Sunny Days

‘A Sunday landscape’ was Mark Twain’s appraisal of Mauritius in his 1897 book, “More Tramps Abroad”. He wasn’t being rude, merely expanding on his clutch of impressions of this island which included ‘a dainty little vest-pocket Matterhorn’


Melbourne - from the Bizarre to the Surreal

One of Melbourne's funky street sculptures (above); Phil Hall, curator of the Contempora outdoor sculpture festival, points out a prize example of Melbourne street art (right)

Melbourne's street art sometimes has visitors wondering whether it's their eyes or Melbourne itself that is playing tricks on them.


Metro-Mania in Paris

This article details the Metro, the underground rail system that efficiently links all of Paris, as well as its history and use, and the unique decor of some of the stations.


Monkey Business along the Kinabatangan River

Cruising the Kinabatangan River (above); A Proboscis Monkey rules the rainforest from its treetop perch (right); A Blue-eared Kingfisher, on the Kinabatangan River (below)

Sabah's Kinabatangan River is a wildlife refuge without peer, home to both orang-utans and the endangered Proboscis Monkey


Monsoon Magic

While the rest of Australia bakes in a dry heat, Darwin welcomes the summer months with bracing showers which reveal the Territory's staggering natural beauty.


Moscow's Magic

Russian Orthodox procession at the Kremlin / St Basil's Cathedral, Red Square

There's much to explore in the Russian capital, deservedly one of the world's great cities, declares Philip Game.


Mount Wutai goes World Heritage

Mount Wutai Shan, China: Pusading Temple rises dramatically atop Lingjiu Peak (above); A worshipper at Pusading Temple (right); Pavilion on the 2058-metre Yedou Peak,  the highest mountain in northern China (below)

China's "Holiest of Holies", the sacred Mount Wutai (Wutaishan) has just received UNESCO World Heritage listing


Mountains of Musandam

Mountains of Musandam / Khasab Fort

Back to the Future, in a remote corner of eastern Arabia


Mountains, Monasteries and Machinations in Sikkim

Monks of Rumtek Monastery enjoy the awesome valley views (above); A young monk shows visitors the wonders of Rumtek Monastery (above); The peaks of Mt Kabru, Sikkim's second highest mountain (below)

Living in one of the world's most mountainous territories, the people of Sikkim have had to learn how to adapt to nature’s whims. But the whims of nature are as nothing when compared with the escapades of Sikkim's politicians


Movie Island

Karen Halabi discovers that sun, sea, sand and ancient buildings are why Hollywood is in a sweaty love affair with Malta. With a bit of art direction it can be ancient Rome, Africa or Asia.


Mozambique's Wild North-west

"The Peoples' Republic of Mozambique" - the last such sign in existence? (above); the twisted landscapes of NW Mozambique (right)

Birthplace of the revolutionary movement that tore Mozambique apart in the 70s and 80s, the northwest of this country is a spectacular landscape of twisted rock forms - the background to one of Africa's most colourful rail trips. The trip by road to the coast concludes a fascinating journey of discovery


Murder in Paradise

The clubhouse of the Norfolk Island golf club is in an old convict-built military barracks (above); A sign in Norfolk Island dialect greets arriving visitors at the airport (right)

Norfolk Island's first instance of major violent crime propels this tiny island nation into the world spotlight.


My island home

Often overlooked by their media tart cousins, the Whitsunday Islands, Fiona Harper explores some of the lesser known islands of north Queensland.


Nam the Price

This article continues with details of modern Vietnam and includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.


Nan Madol, enigmatic remains of a lost civilisation

Nan Madol / Pohnpeian man

Enigmatic ruins of a floating city, built by a lost civilisation, survive on the remote Micronesian island of Pohnpei


New Brooms through Broome

A Japanese-style Torii gate overlooks Broome's Town Beach

Surprises in store in Australia's most ethnically diverse town


New Caledonia: Le Grand Sud

The flightless cagou is an endangered species (left);  Ancient araucarian pines flourish near the Madeleine Falls; Endemic plants flourish in the nickel-rich soils

Explore a mysterious landscape of deserted mountains, black lakes and red earth, an ancient terrain which conceals an exceptional ecological diversity.


New food trails in India

A lavish Sikkimese-style meal

Experience the exotic flavours of India's northeast


New views from Koh Samui

The Big Buddha statue on Koh Samui (Samui Island) (above); a mellow sunrise over Chaweng Beach (right); a rock roars like a petrified dragon out of the sea, in Angthong Marine National Park (below)

Tourist Police or policing the tourists?


Nights on white Sharjahs

Sunset rowers on Sharjah Creek

Cricket and stunning architecture are the drawcards of Sharjah, just down the road from Dubai


No place like The Alice

Henley on Todd Regatta

Hush... the first notes of the flute waft through the balmy air. Two hundred pairs of hands wave gracefully - keeping time with the flies, rampant after recent rains.


No roads lead to Nome

Ace sled-dog instructor Christine Rowe takes a pupil for a trial run

Alaska's wild west


North Star Shines in the West

Expedition cruiser, Roderick Eime, climbs aboard Western Australia's premier adventure yacht, True North, for a unique and intimate sampling of our west's own special character.


Not much beach at Copacabana

Hotel la Cupula nestles against the mountain that dominates the skyline of Copacabana

The beach at Bolivia's Copacabana is a far cry from its Brazilian namesake


Of Prancer, Dancer, Rudolph and a man called Claus (Christmas in Lapland)

Glenn A Baker journeys to Finnish Lapland to spend time with the Jolly Red Gent who receives and answers over a million letters a year from children in more than fifty countries.


Off the map in the "Land of the Free"

Old wooden houses line the Loue River, in the village of Ornans

A journey of exploration through Franche-Comté, France


Oman takes a bold leap into the future

The kuma hat and tasselled dishdasha of Omani dress (above); Picking ripe dates in Tiwi Village (right); A Nizwa family at Jibrin Castle (below)

Modernity doesn't mean abandoning tradition, in the Sultanate of Oman


On Basque Time

Espelette is the chilli capital of France (above); Pierre Oteiza has revived the dying breed of le porc Basque (right); Hams and smallgoods fill the window of La Maison du Jambon, Saint-Etienne-de-Baigorry (below); Typical dwellings in the river town of Bayonne (below right).

A gourmet tour through France's Basque Country reveals more than just sensory delights


On Okinawa

The visitor could be forgiven for thinking that Okinawa is an outpost of the USA

Japan with palm trees


On safari

A giraffe in Hwange National Park (above); Bumi Hills Safari Lodge (right)

Don a safari suit and take off like Livingstone, either in five-star luxury, cocooned in some of Zimbabwe'sfinest hotels and resorts or sleeping out under the African stars in a tent or thatched tree-house.


On the Frankincense Trail

A colourful frankincense burner, on sale at a Salalah market (above); a gnarled old frankincense tree (right)

Sniffing out ancient scents, in Oman


Once Were Cannibals

he Marquesas, subtitled appropriately 'the land of men' is said to be the most remote island group in the world, and are composed of twelve islands. Six are inhabited but the remainder are rocky dots in this forgotten corner of the Pacific Ocean.


Ordeal by Firewater OR Blotto in the Grotto

Ba Vuong pours a mean brew of firewater, in her village long-house (above); A thatch-roofed raft serves both as a boat and a sun-shelter

A serendipitous trip through the four southern provinces bordering Hanoi is a true voyage of discovery. The only thing that will slow down the traveller is being constantly plied with the local firewater


Out Back of Barcoo

Any bites?

The Outback is a state of mind, not simply a line on the map, and western Queensland proves the point.


Outback by Air

Air-cruising is one of the finest ways to take in the Australian outback (above)

An innovative Melbourne-based company offers tours of the Outback by air, condensing what might normally take four weeks into just four days – without losing the essence of an authentic Outback experience.


Outback Style: Seductive South Australia

Sevenhill Cellars, Clare Valley / Captain's Cottage, Blinman

Rural South Australia is somehow… different.


Outwitching the Witchdoctors

The voodoo markets of Togo, in West Africa, are a "bewitching" experience


Pai in the Sky

Beside the river at Pai

Not too big and not too small, the hill town of Pai offers a delightful retreat for travellers of all ages.


Passage to Paradise

Australia’s tropical Whitsunday Islands reveal their treasures


Phinda Bush Skills Adventure

All eyes on a pair of lions, at Phinda Private Game Reserve (above); Sleeping out under the stars (right); Specialist ranger Mark Karantonis teaches rifle skills (below)

Tricia Welsh finds that a four-day ‘bush skills’ adventure on Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa can somewhat spoil it for regular safaris.


Phnom Penh Panorama

During its pre 1970 glory days Phnom Penh was known as the Paris of Asia. The moniker is still deserved.


Playing Polo

This article details of the amazing Silk Road, its history and its fascinating route today and includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.


PNG: Like Every Place You've Never Been

Roderick Eime returns from a series of voyages to the remote islands of PNG.


Pohnpei: Legends, Lords and Lost Cities

Discover an island of rain-drenched forests and coastal mangroves, whose mysteries deepen through the bottom of a glass of stupefying sakau, a drink made from pepper bushes.


Potions and Spells

A Kallawaya (herbal pharmacist) at her stall in the "Witchdoctors Market" of La Paz

Want a love potion to make that special person find you irresistable? It's here in the Witch-doctors' Market, in the Bolivian capital of La Paz


Pressing the meat or meeting the press?

A demonstration of Gutenberg's original printing press, in the Gutenberg Museum

Gutenberg's marvellous invention on display in Mainz, Germany


Putting on the Taj

Karen Halabi explores the palace and fort hotels of Rajasthan, royal retreats which have become upmarket historic hotels, where you can breathe the rarefied gentile air of a bygone era.


QUALIA in the Whitsundays

Qualia, a truly Australian resort on the Great Barrier Reef, joins Australia' s luxury resort scene.


Racing around the Rock

Fiona Harper jumps onboard a yacht at Sunferries Magnetic Island Race Week, Queensland.


Remembering the Cameleers

The Afghan Mosque in Larapinta, a suburb of Alice Springs

Central Australia's new Afghan Mosque commemorates the Afghan cameleers who opened up the heartland of Australia's outback


Reykjavik- The Steam Also Rises

Glenn A Baker discovers a new kind of cool in Iceland.


Riding the Railroad in northern New Mexico

A guard on the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad

The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad, straddling the border between New Mexico and Colorado, is a scenic delight


Riga Reinvented

Well worn cobblestone lanes lead from one architectural treasure to the next in the Old Town of Riga.


Riga's Riches

Summer evening in a Riga cafe  / Jugendstil architecture

It’s eleven at night, but who wants to sleep, anyway?


Roads to Damascus

A journey through the surprising Mediterranean country of Syria


Rockin’ ‘round ‘Rocky’

Set smack on the imaginary Tropic of Capricorn everything else is real in Rockhampton.


Rocky Coast to the Edges of Land's End

We could be in Brittany, or Wales, or any other Celtic country. But here when someone or somewhere is prefixed Pen-, Tre-, Treg- or Trew-, you could be nowhere else but Cornwall.


Roo-Markable

This article details the fresh produce, wildlife and other things to see and do on this unique island close to Adelaide in South Australia. It includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine.


Royal Treatment

A trip on the Royal Scotsman is a perfect blend of past and present as you and your select group of fellow-passengers clicketty-clack along the rails.

That’s just the beginning of this story. Castles, lochs, distilleries, a knees-up ceilidh, and more food and wine (and whisky!) than you could shake a bagpipe at.

Five-star amenities, attentive staff. That’s what wins people. Royal treatment, all the way.

 


Russia’s Golden Ring

Folk singer / Cathedral of the Transfiguration, Yaroslavl

From the somnolent museum town of Suzdal to the Volga River port of Yaroslavl, the historic towns and cities northeast of Moscow exert their gentle charm


Ruta de Plata, Spain's Silver Road

Roman theatre, Merida / Roadside bull

A two thousand-year-old touring route crosses the heart of Spain


Sacred Forests of Savannakhet

Wild ginger plant

Never let a beetle piss in your eye, warns Philip Game


Sails and Saxophones

With 40 of Australia's top jazz musicians supported by highly acclaimed up and coming stars, the Great Tropical Jazz Party is a melting pot of jazz in tropical north Queensland. Following closely on from Sunferries Magnetic Island Race Week, Fiona Harper takes in some cool jazz beneath the palms.


Salaam Calcutta

Though Haji Latif Abdulla has never had his business devastated by fire much of his life’s work has gone up in smoke! As I slowly sauntered down Rabindra Sarani exploring an alluring sector of Calcutta where the city’s rich Muslim heritage is readily visible he beckoned me into his shop to explain such a seemingly contradictory statement.


Samba time in Helsinki

Helsinki's annual Samba Festival

When you think of samba, chances are you don't immediately think of Finland - which is why Helsinki's annual Samba Festival comes as such a pleasant surprise


Samoa Smiles

Handcrafted outrigger canoes, whitewashed churches, the occasional cricket pitch, beehive-shaped fales, the 45 minute drive from Samoa’s international airport to its South Seas capital is an excellent introduction to the very heart of traditional Polynesia.


San Juan: Port of Plenty

One of the luxury liners which helps bring more than four million visitors a year to the exotic Caribbean port of San Juan

The Caribbean's "Silk 'n Satin" Port of Plenty stuns its privileged visitors


Sand Through the Fraser Island Hourglass

Like sand through the hourglass, these are the days of our long-suffering feet. Eschewing the need for a 4WD to explore Fraser Island, Fiona Harper decides to explore by foot instead, walking the sand trails that crisscross the worlds largest sand island.


Santa Fe, City Different

Adobe buildings / Chilli peppers

In Santa Fe even the parking stations are built with adobe in the Spanish colonial style.


Seaside towns of South Australia's South East

Historic roadside inn, Robe, South Australia

The seaside towns of South Australia’s South-East cling to a sun-scorched coast, a shadeless landscape of low limestone crags, dunes and lagoons.


Secret Welsh Rarebit

Caernarfon Castle / Mount Snowdon

The Welsh do share that English passion for privacy… finding a sea-front inn on the Llyn Peninsula becomes quite a challenge.


Secrets of Bruny Island

Cruising the D'Entrecasteaux Channel, Bruny Island reveals a few of her secrets to those who linger long enough to look beyond the wildlife and the laidback lifestyle.

Fiona Harper takes time out in southern Tasmania.


Seeing the Landscape

Hermannsburg Mission Church, dating from 1897

The art of Australian Aboriginal artist Albert Namatjira


Seine Answers

This article starts with the Seine River and continues with details of Paris. It includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.


Seoul - Seen From The Stalls

Glenn A Baker extends the boundaries of retail with a visit to the amazing markets of Seoul


Serendip and School Pens

This article tells of the traffic, the constant horn-tooting, beautiful scenery and even more lovely people, their religion, and the tea plantations for which this country as Ceylon made its name.


Shangri-La Rediscovered

Songzanlin Monastery

By the eager people's bureaucrats of South West China's remote Diqing Region, that is...


Sharm-el-Sheikh: an Engaging Extremity

A tough tug-o-war on the beach, at Sharm-el-Sheik

The Red Sea's premier resort still entices, even given the occasional terrorism threat


Shipshape Bristol

Companies like Lloyds Bank have made the shift to Bristol.

The English port city reinvents itself.


Show Me the Money

Macau is famous for its Portugese tarts.

With the development of a Las Vegas-styled strip, glitzy casinos and more five star hotels than you could shake a stick at, Macau is rapidly establishing itself as a rich man’s playground.


Showtime on Mount Hagen

The Huli Wigmen in full flight at the Mt. Hagen Show

Show week in Mount Hagen is a riotous celebration of the highland cultures of Papua New Guinea


Siem Reap: Simply Remarkable

In 1860, French naturalist Henri Mouhot was trudging through the steamy jungles of Indochina in search of rare orchids. He found something far more exceptional.


Singapore Sizzles After Dark

THE Lion City continues to shed its sterile image to reveal its hip side. Sheriden Rhodes takes a look at the city's burgeoning string of chic restaurants and ultra cool bars.


Size matters at Selous

Selous Game Reserve

There is something magic about flying across Africa, bound for the world’s largest wildlife reserve.


Slovenia – Adriatic, alpine, astounding

Glenn A Baker settles into his room at the fabled Vila Bled and enjoys the view all the way to Italy


Snapshot of Slovenia

This article visits the forgotten medieval town of Stanjel, as well as Slovenia itself and includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.


So far, Dhofar

Gnarled frankincense trees dominate the landcsape of Dhofar

The rugged Dhofar region of southern Oman


Soaring above the treetops in Costa Rica

Toucans are colourful inhabitants of Costa Rica (above): Zipping through the cloud forests at Monteverde, Costa Rica (right)

Tricia Welsh takes an exhilarating ride on a zip-line high above the treetops in Costa Rica


Solomons Sojourn: Down to the water line

Marovo Lagoon, Solomon Islands

Don’t overlook one of the last frontiers in the South Pacific, writes Philip Game


Southern Comfort

This article details travel through the South of Italy, the discoveries, staying in agriturismo farm stays and includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.


Soweto Uplifting

Although much has changed in South Africa since the breakdown of apartheid, I'll wager most of Soweto is pretty much as it's always been - a hot, motley, dusty settlement for struggling black Africans.


Spas of the Swiss Riviera

Stressed out 21st century travellers are heading to the Swiss Riviera to restore mind and body at lavish new wellness centres that have sprung up on its shores.


Spa’licious Mauritius

Honey skinned therapists apply aromatic oils, soothing hands and years of experience to ease body and soul at an increasing number of sophisticated spas in Mauritius.


Sri Lanka Chic

One of Colombo's many fashionable eateries.

The country’s past is steeped in colonial history and a colourful spice and tea trade, but a spirited revival is giving it a chic new vibe.


St Petersburg: a Pattern of Islands

Fountains at Petrodvorets or Peter's Palace / Bankovsky Most

Conceived from the first to be one of Europe's great cities, St Petersburg grew from the vision of just one man, a monarch who engaged the finest architects of the day.


Street smart: Chiang Mai

Old Chiang Mai Cafe, Chiang Mai

A quick guide to Tha Pae Road, Chiang Mai, Thailand


Stylish Stockholm

Visitors to Stockholm can’t say they know Sweden’s stylish capital until they’ve experienced a quartet of one-off lures.


Sugar City

This article gives details of the history and location of Bristol and includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.


Taiwan Textures

A tiny fraction of the hundreds of  Buddhas at Foguanshan Monastery

China's "renegade province" forges its own identity, while at the same time developing trade ties with the mainland

 


Taiwan, a Chinese puzzle

Often overlooked, Taiwan - the other China - can certainly overturn the preconceptions of a first-time visitor


Take Verdigris, Lapis Lazuli and Crushed Beetles...

Trinity College Dublin

Mix green from verdigris; blue from precious lapis lazuli, transported from the Orient; yellow from orpiment, a sulphide of lead; collect and crush cochineal beetles to make a rich red...


Tales from the Mary River

The still-busy Mary River waterfront (above); Firing up an old steam train at Maryborough Station (right); Maryborough Heritage Centre, in Wharf Street (below)

Ghosts and opium dens are just a part of the colourful history of Maryborough, Queensland


Tallinn... Locked in the Tower

Roofs of Tallinn / Estonian folk costume

Time to pick my way back down to street level. But as I turned, I found the spiral staircase enveloped in darkness...


Tangier: White dove or predatory gull?

Early morning in the Medina / Rooftops of the Medina

The ancient port of Tangier is described by its partisans as the White Dove on the Shoulder of Africa: white cuboid buildings tumble down the slopes around a horseshoe-shaped bay.


Tarawa: treasured values of a timeless atoll

Channel between two islets on Tarawa Atoll

Kiribati hold its head high, in the face of rising sea levels


Tasmanian Food, Beyond Apples

his article details the various crops and produce of this fertile island and includes contact information for vineyards, cheese-makers, restaurants, bakers, and oyster growers among other things.


Tassie Tempters

This article details food producers and wineries in the north and north-west of this island-state and includes information on accommodation, dining and things to do and see.


Terror on Tanna

Villagers play petanque, at the foot of Mount Yasur on Tanna Island

It's not every day you get to narrowly avoid falling into a volcano - even on Tanna Island, in Vanuatu


Thai Temptations

Sunny Samui and cultural Chiang Rai are tempting destinations providing superb places to relax and recharge after exploring dazzling heritage attractions.


Thailand too frenetic? Cross the river...

Wat Jom Kham overlooks Naung Tung Lake, Kengtung

Cross the river at Mae Sai, and step back fifty years into Myanmar


That's Singapore - With an 'S'

This article highlights all the other Ss that can be applied to Singapore: strict, sleek, savvy, sixty…. and many more.


The Alexandria of Alexander

Alexandria the Great sailed the Mediterranean stopping at many sun-specked islands in the fabled sea. Just one was named after the intrepid adventurer.


The Bird Men of Singapore

This article details the custom of these men who bring their caged birds to a cafe so they can learn from each other how to sing beautifully in order to win singing contests.


The Black Phantom

The head to toe hijab is compulsory attire for many women in Saudi Arabia, dubbed "black phantoms".

Karen Halabi explores what lies "behind the veil" in Saudi Arabia, a land of contradictions where strict Muslims traditions come face to face with designer labels.


The Buddha is alive and well in Central China

Incense sticks at the Yungang Caves (above); A Shaolin monk demonstrates some nifty King Fu steps (right); the bodhisattva Kuan Yin stands in front of the Sakyamuni wooden pagoda (below)

In Henan and Shanxi provinces, China's rich Buddhist heritage is once more delighting and astonishing the world


The Call of Colombo

The Buddha is said to have visited the Raja Maha Vihara Temple some 2000 years ago.

Sri Lanka's capital Colombo is an intoxicating mix of cultures


The case of the disappearing hotel

The new Goa ma Bwarhat Cultural Centre, dedicated to Kanak heritage (above); the village of Hienghène in the Hienghène River Valley (right)

The west coast village of Tiendanique, in New Caledonia, is the birthplace and home village of Jean-Marie Tjibaou, architect of Kanak independence.


The Charm of Chartering

The noise was deafening. The roar of blood pumping through my head as we charged forward, hell bent on hitting the start line milliseconds after the gun went, was drowned out by the commands of our tactitian.

 

Fiona Harper jumps onboard a chartered pocket maxi yacht at Hamilton Island Race Week.


The Chieftain of Skull Island

Chief Eddie of Skull Island (above); Skulls of Rovaina warriors (right and below); Picture-perfect - one one of the Solomons' 999 islands (below right)

The chieftain of Kundu Hite (Skull Island) in the Solomon Islands is last in a long line of headhunters


The Colors of Antarctica

Basking elephant seals, at Hannah Point

Preconceptions of Antarctica are shattered like the pack ice beneath a ship's bow.


The Colours of Hué

The colourful entrance to Thúông Qùôc-Hôc High School (above); at Hué Market (right)

The old imperial city of Hué, in Central Vietnam, seems to have sprung direct from a colour designer’s palette.


The Cook Islands - Not Blighted By Bligh

Glenn A Baker retraces Bligh and Cook and overtakes John Wayne and Cary Grant on his way to Rarotonga


The first Japanese

The Ainu people of Hokkaido (Japan) want not just recognition but land rights and hunting rights too


The Iditarod turns thirty-five

Musher at Finger Lake

Alaska's great sled-dog race


The Maltese Connection

Mdina, the Silent City

European holidaymakers flock to Malta for the sunshine, but the rest of us savour fine food with an Italian touch, and other legacies of a long and tortuous history - including the post-War exodus of emigrants.


The Misty Mountain Hop To Dalat

Glenn A Baker rejoices in the delights of Dalat - a very different Vietnam


The new Dubai

Mean machines in the dunes, in the hinterland of Dubai

"Bigger is better" appears to be Dubai's philosophy, and the city is clearly out to impress.


The Nile in Style

Traditional feluccas ply the Nile near Aswan (above); The new Sun Boat IV redefines luxury cruising on the Nile (right)

Ever since the Middle Ages, Nile cruises have been de rigeur – but never so stylish as they are now.

 


The world's smallest island republic

Nauru's Anibare Bay

Nauru, the world’s smallest island republic, searches for a sustainable future... but is money laundering or hosting Australia's unwanted boat people the answer?


The World’s Biggest Dance Festival

Dancers at the Navaratri Festival

Nine nights of non-stop dance, Navaratri in Gujarat (India) is the planet’s oldest, biggest and most spectacular dance celebration.


Three Days in Provence

This article starts with the Seine River and continues with details of Paris. It includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.


Tiger in the Taiga

Last light falls over Saivaskoye village, on the Amur River

Cultural bridges along the Amur River, in Russia's Far East


Tigers leap where angels fear to tread...

On the Upper Track / Paper Tiger

...in Yunnan's Tiger Leaping Gorge


Time for Tallinn

Tallinn’s terrific Old Town tantalises travellers with a mix of medieval charm and modern comforts.


Tito and me

The mirror-like waters of Lake Bled

A "meeting" with the ex-President of Yugoslavia


Tiwanaku: Bolivian roots

The "Ponce stela" at Tiwanaku

The ruins of the great pre-Inca city of Tiwanaku display a genius that seems to carry through into every aspect of everyday Bolivian life.


To The Manor Borne

Gravetye Manor (it isn't even pronounced as you would expect – it's Grave Tie) is deliciously off the map, a flowery hidden estate. But of course, when a place has been around for 500 years or so you do expect people to have learnt your location.


Top End – Top Class

This article details the luxury accommodation and dining at Wrotham Park Station Station on Cape York Peninsula and its history and also includes information on the activities available.


Trail of Memories

A lotus pond at Sandakan Memorial Park

Sandakan Memorial Park commemorates the infamous Sandakan Death March of World War II


Traipsing Through the Terelj

The Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, one of the most important nature reserves in Mongolia, is true wilderness country where yaks meander and stocky Mongolian horses graze.


Tribal Tales from Andhra

A day's drive northwest of Hyderabad is a wilderness that few foreigner visitors to India have ever seen.


Trieste: the end of an empire, or two

Trieste: the end of an empire, or two


Two sides of Paradise

The awesome peaks of Gran Paradiso National Park rise above the village of Aymavilles (left); The distinctive local costume of the Soana Valley (right)

The two approaches to northern Italy's Gran Paradiso National Park reveal a huge diversity of landscapes


Up, Up and Away

This article details hot-air ballooning in Australia, the facts and figures and safety issues, and  includes a breakout box on the history of ballooning.


Upstream without a paddle in Bangkok

Glancing over my shoulder at our driver, momentarily I wonder if I've stepped onto the wrong long-tail boat. Her face fully covered by a menacing full-faced balaclava, she navigates our vessel away from the dock. Fiona Harper takes a journey upstream to the floating markets of Bangkok, Thailand.


Utah - Wide open, spacious, dramatic

The splendid panorama of Bryce Canyon

In a spectacularly scenic part of America, Utah really stands head and shoulders above the rest


Valencia - more than just oranges

Underwater restaurant Submarino in the City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia

Visitors to Valencia this year for the America's Cup will find more than just oranges in this chic Mediterranean city of just 800,000 people.

 


Vanuatu cruising

Fiona Harper discovers the cruising grounds of volcanic Vanuatu.


Venice Unmasked

The masks of Carnevale personify Venice, a fantasy city whose real life is hidden behind a tourist veneer and hardly ever revealed to strangers.


Vietnam War veterans work together to create a national museum

On the outskirts of Newhaven, Phillip Island, stands an unlikely visitor attraction, housed within a starkly industrial aircraft hangar.


Vilnius Values

While Vilnius is a modern city in every sense of the word it’s the baroque beauty of the medieval Old Town that beguiles every visitor.


Vilnius: Prague of the North

Ausros Vartai city gate / Cafe in Pilies gatve, Vilnius

Shiny new cars from Russia, Belarus, Latvia, Estonia, Poland and a reunified Germany rumble across the cobblestones: glimpses of eastern Europe reborn.

 


Walhalla's Golden Glories

What is it about this remote Victorian community with its handful of residents?


Walking the Green Stairs to 'Heaven'

A Jeepney takes me along a bumpy road that winds through the hills a few km out of Banaue to a vantage point that has a sweeping vista over what’s been called the ‘eighth wonder of the world’.


Water Worlds

Guard at the Step Well of Patan, otherwise known as the Queen’s Step Well (above); Inside (at the bottom) of the Adalaj Vav Step well, an elaborate carved muti-level structure used as a water catchment (right)

The ancient water temples of Gujarat are architectural marvels that have something in common with the pyramids


Waters of Life: Bali goes World Heritage

The rice terraces of Jatiluwih (above); Taman Ayun Temple, Mengwi (right); Taking the sacred waters of Pura Tirtha Empul (below right)

Bali's priceless treasures are at last recognised by UNESCO


West Africa meets France in Louisiana

Manou Galou & le Djiboi, from Cote d'Ivoire, at Festival Internationale de Louisiane (above); Masters of Zydeco, Geno Delafose and French Rockin' Boogie (right)

Lafayette’s annual (April) Festival International de Louisiane, deep in Cajun Country of Louisiana, is a celebration of all things Francophone.


Where Mountains Meet The Sea

Roderick Eime travels to the scenic east coast of NZ's South Island to investigate the 'deep secret' of Kaikoura


Winter in Alaska - are you crazy?

An elk is silhouetted against the sky, at Big Game Alaska Wildlife Centre

Alaska offers some winter options not found elsewhere, including access to unique wildlife and native culture, and sports including skijoring (ie dog-towed skiing)


Wrangel Island: isolation, desolation and tragedy

Wrangel Island is an enigmatic landmass trapped in the fringes of the permanent Arctic ice pack. Born out of legend and maintained by tales of hardship, endurance and tragedy its apparently austere appearance hides a UNESCO World Heritage-listed, self-contained island ecosystem.


Zanzibar's Open Doors

Zanzibari dhows have been plying Indian Ocean waters for centuries

The legendary spice and slave port of Zanzibar, just off the African coast


Åland: The littlest "country" in Europe

From Åland, all roads lead to Port Lincoln, South Australia

Finland's semi-independent Åland Islands have strong links with Australia


 

 
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