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12,001 Miracles at North Korea's Kumgang Mountains

Some of the "12,000 pinnacles" tower over the Manmulsang track, in the Kumgang Mountains

Can the sound of a temple bell call forth a mountain range? It would seem unlikely. But in the case of Korea's "holy of holies" Mount Kumgang (aka Kumgangsan, Geumgangsan National Park, or the Diamond Mountains), nothing appears to be impossible.


A Piece of Pai

The mountainous reaches of northern Thailand – until recent years isolated from the rest of the country – shelter many scenic and cultural treasures.


A Potent Creole Concoction

Giant tortoises, which roam a number of Seychelles' 115 islands, can weigh in at up to 300kg

The people of the Seychelles - of English, French, Asian and African origin - have blended their influences into one potent Creole concoction.


A taste of Taveuni

Taveuni Island, straddling the International Date Line, is a lush getaway


A window on the desert

A Perentie (Centralian blue-tongued lizard) at Alice Springs Desert Park

Alice Springs' Desert Park breathes Life into the Australian Outback


Aground off the Pilbara coast

Varanus Island, Pilbara West Australia

Long distance cruising onboard a yacht can be a leisurely, personally satisfying lifestyle. Until one runs aground on an unseen sandbar that is.

Join Fiona Harper on a yachting adventure that sees her 15m yacht aground in far northwest Australia.


Along the Zambezi River

Mosi Oa Tunya, aka the Victoria Falls (above); A dugout on the Zambezi River (right)

Near-record rainfalls along the Zambezi River in 2006 and early 2007 have transformed the landscape into a nature wonderland


Amazing Amazonia

Impatient tourist, Roderick Eime, learns the lore of the jungle - and that the jungle is a law unto itself.


AN ELEPHANT SANCTUARY

Karen Halabi reports from an elephant sanctuary in the remote hills north of Chiang Mai, Thailand, where an Elephant Nature Park and the woman who runs it, are attracting international attention.


Another Kenya

A Lakipia Maasai of Loisaba (above); a cheetah stands proud on a hill in the Rift Valley (right)

The Samburu of the Northern Rift Valley of Kenya are intriguing cousins of the better-known Masai of the south.


Bandung Beauties

Bandung’s biggest drawcard is ugly, smells bad and often can’t even be seen at all.


Belem - city on the equator

The surprising city of Belém, gateway to the lower Amazon


Bernier Where?

The extraordinary sand dunes of Bernier Island

A former leper colony now makes a most attractive getaway from Carnarvon, on Australia's mid-west coast, discovers Fiona Harper


Brunei's rainforest and reef riches

Glenn A Baker is blown away by Brunei - and finds much more than oil and Sultans.


Byron Bay - a town from another planet?

Best feet forward in Byron Bay (above); Taking in a perfect Byron Bay sunset (right); a dazzling performance at the East Coast Blues and Roots Festival (below); only the most literate come to the Byron Bay Writers' Festival (below right)

Visitors to Byron Bay, the most easterly town on the world's most easterly continent, sometimes wonder if they are still on planet earth.


Camels and Country Kindness in Cunnamulla

Willy Cooma, "The Camel Man" (above); Kayaking on the Warrego River (right); Turnworth Bore, a spa-in-the-making (above)

The sign at the town entrance tells it all: “Welcome to Cunnamulla, settled in the Dreamtime.” Aussie towns don’t get much older than that. Nor do they get much more welcoming and community-spirited.

 


Churchill Cool

There are two sides to Churchill’s burgeoning tourism coin. In winter this tiny Canadian outpost on Hudson Bay is visited by those wanting a (not too) close encounter with polar bears; in summer tourists come to see Beluga Whales frolicking in tranquil waters.


Colours of Gujarat

Gujarat is the land of the Mahatma - the birthplace of Ghandi - and the only place on Earth where you can still see the Asiatic Lion, says Karen Halabi.


Crossing the island of Rarotonga

Approaching The Needle, Rarotonga

The four-hour cross island walk began as a single lane road winding into the foothills, past ramshackle villages struggling to keep the fast growing jungle at bay. Rarotongan village kids ran beside the road giggling and waving while the dogs were as laid back as the adult villagers, barely lifting their heads in the tropical heat to give us more than a brief glance as we passed by.

 

Fiona Harper fights tropical lethargy in the Cook Islands.


Darling River Run

Darling River campsite at Kinchega / Outback mailbox

Never a dull moment on the long, dusty road which follows Australia’s largest river, even when the drought-stricken Darling is little more than a string of stagnant pools.


Dingo: Have passport, can travel

Cunning dingoes roam Fraser Island, in southern Queensland, often getting just a little too close to visitors who long for a gentle wildlife encounter. Visitors are advised to keep a close watch on their belongings, particurlarly their passports.


Dolphin Coast - Sydney's Playground

Tourists come from as far away as Korea Japan and China to see blue nosed dolphins at Port Stephens on the coast, just north of Sydney.


Exit Zimbabwe, onstage Zambia

An impala in the wild, at Kafue National Park

As Zimbabwe fades off the tourist stage, the new star on the southern Africa stage is Zambia.


Falling in Love with Sea Lions in the Abrolhos

They say the best holidays are those with an element of romance. They also say that sometimes the best romances are those that end with the holiday, leaving nothing but happy memories. That's the kind of romance you get when you fall for sea lions, discovers Fiona Harper.


Finding Green in Taiwan

The pagoda of Hsiang-te Temple towers over Taroko Gorge (above); The bizarre rock formations of Yeliu (right); Wind-power Park, near Kaohsiung (below)

Get out of Taiwan's main cities and you'll encounter a nature-feast without peer


Fraser Island: Home of the Badtjala Nation

A dingo basks in the sunshine, on Fraser Island

The Aboriginal heritage of the world's largest sand island


Game For Anything

A tree-house in Hwange National Park

Hwange National Park is the largest and best gameviewing area in Zimbabwe and, some say, all of Africa. With roughly 15,000 sq km of protected parklands, it's around the size of Wales or Belgium. During a short stay here it is not impossible to see up to 50 different species of animal and bird life...


Gems of Gibraltar

Looming out of azure blue waters at the gateway to the Mediterranean Sea is one of the world's most unmistakable landmarks, the Rock of Gibraltar.


Gimme shelter...

Wallace's Hut, Bogong High Plains

Many of the rough-hewn shelter huts scattered across the Australian Alps represent the legacy of earlier, more innocent visitors, including the now-banished mountain cattlemen.


Global warming - for the birds?

A colourfully-clad tribal lady cuts grass in Keoladeo Nationala Park, where once there was deep water (above); one of the few remaining wetland sections of the park (right)

Rajasthan's World Heritage Keoladeo National Park is no longer bird-friendly, as its wetlands dry up


Godzone country

Submerged trees in Lake Kariba, on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia

"Welcome to my home", said the beaming taxi driver at Harare airport in such warm, lilting tones that I should have realised the pull had already started. "To my home" I kept thinking on the drive into the Zimbabwean capital, not to Harare or even Zimbabwe, but "to my home". In all my years of travelling, no-one had ever said that to me before.

 

 


In the Wild - Africa in widescreen

Elephants at a waterhole in Hwange National Park (above); typical tree-house accommodation (below)

A live geography lesson in wide screen, Zimbabwe is an ideal place to take kids on a family holiday but check first - many lodges won't take children under 12 and they often aren't allowed on game drives.


Inhaling the Huon

Stepping into the workshop at the Wooden Boat Centre, waterside on the Huon River at Franklin in southern Tasmania, Fiona Harper inhales the sweet aroma of Huon Pine permeating the air.


Keeping a sense of Hiiumaa

An old windmill at Luidja, on Hiiumaa Island (above); the manor house of the "Mad Baron" Ungern-Sternberg (right)

Ghosts still roam parts of Estonia's Hiiumaa Island, renowned for its wilderness and heritage.


Kuril Conundrum

Arctic fox on Yankicho Island / Mural at the Soviet submarine base, Simushir

Russia's remote Kuril Islands are not a people place


Mahouts' Course

"Good girl, Yom!" (above); Mother and adopted son, at the Mahouts' Course Elephant Camp (right)

There is no elegant way to climb up onto an elephant. Tricia Welsh learns this at a mahout’s course in Northern Thailand.


Malabar Magic

India dances to a different beat throughout the Malabar, a culturally rich and scenically diverse region of northern Kerala.


Monkey Business along the Kinabatangan River

Cruising the Kinabatangan River (above); A Proboscis Monkey rules the rainforest from its treetop perch (right); A Blue-eared Kingfisher, on the Kinabatangan River (below)

Sabah's Kinabatangan River is a wildlife refuge without peer, home to both orang-utans and the endangered Proboscis Monkey


Monsoon Magic

While the rest of Australia bakes in a dry heat, Darwin welcomes the summer months with bracing showers which reveal the Territory's staggering natural beauty.


Mountains, Monasteries and Machinations in Sikkim

Monks of Rumtek Monastery enjoy the awesome valley views (above); A young monk shows visitors the wonders of Rumtek Monastery (above); The peaks of Mt Kabru, Sikkim's second highest mountain (below)

Living in one of the world's most mountainous territories, the people of Sikkim have had to learn how to adapt to nature’s whims. But the whims of nature are as nothing when compared with the escapades of Sikkim's politicians


Movie Island

Karen Halabi discovers that sun, sea, sand and ancient buildings are why Hollywood is in a sweaty love affair with Malta. With a bit of art direction it can be ancient Rome, Africa or Asia.


Mozambique's Wild North-west

"The Peoples' Republic of Mozambique" - the last such sign in existence? (above); the twisted landscapes of NW Mozambique (right)

Birthplace of the revolutionary movement that tore Mozambique apart in the 70s and 80s, the northwest of this country is a spectacular landscape of twisted rock forms - the background to one of Africa's most colourful rail trips. The trip by road to the coast concludes a fascinating journey of discovery


Naturally Noosa

Queensland’s striking Sunshine Coast lazily arcs north from the tongue twisting towns of Caloundra and Mooloolaba, past Maroochydore and Mudjimba to end at Noosa.

 

 


New Caledonia: Le Grand Sud

The flightless cagou is an endangered species (left);  Ancient araucarian pines flourish near the Madeleine Falls; Endemic plants flourish in the nickel-rich soils

Explore a mysterious landscape of deserted mountains, black lakes and red earth, an ancient terrain which conceals an exceptional ecological diversity.


On safari

A giraffe in Hwange National Park (above); Bumi Hills Safari Lodge (right)

Don a safari suit and take off like Livingstone, either in five-star luxury, cocooned in some of Zimbabwe'sfinest hotels and resorts or sleeping out under the African stars in a tent or thatched tree-house.


Outback nature-feast

Brolgas take an after-dinner stroll along a bush track (above); The labyrinthine rock formations of Beal Bluff (right): a Major Mitchell cockatoo flies low over a waterhole (below)

Visitors to SW Queensland in the Australian outback are invariably stunned by the richness and abundance of nature-treasures.


Phinda Bush Skills Adventure

All eyes on a pair of lions, at Phinda Private Game Reserve (above); Sleeping out under the stars (right); Specialist ranger Mark Karantonis teaches rifle skills (below)

Tricia Welsh finds that a four-day ‘bush skills’ adventure on Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa can somewhat spoil it for regular safaris.


Pokhara Pure

The mighty Himalayan Mountains span some 2560 km from northern Pakistan to China. Eight of its colossal peaks are often visible from Pokhara, Nepal’s largest second largest city.


Re-writing the History of the Grampians:

A skylight window, at the Brambuk Aboriginal Cultural Centre (above): McKenzie Falls, in the Grampians (right)

The history of the Grampians, the oldest National Park in Victoria (Australia), has just undergone drastic revision.


River of Sand

Palm Valley, Finke Gorge National Park

Is the Finke the world’s oldest (and driest) watercourse?


Sand Through the Fraser Island Hourglass

Like sand through the hourglass, these are the days of our long-suffering feet. Eschewing the need for a 4WD to explore Fraser Island, Fiona Harper decides to explore by foot instead, walking the sand trails that crisscross the worlds largest sand island.


Secrets of Bruny Island

Cruising the D'Entrecasteaux Channel, Bruny Island reveals a few of her secrets to those who linger long enough to look beyond the wildlife and the laidback lifestyle.

Fiona Harper takes time out in southern Tasmania.


Soaring above the treetops in Costa Rica

Toucans are colourful inhabitants of Costa Rica (above): Zipping through the cloud forests at Monteverde, Costa Rica (right)

Tricia Welsh takes an exhilarating ride on a zip-line high above the treetops in Costa Rica


Tales from a Tall Ship

Enormous, square white sails billow against an impossibly blue sky. Her elegant bow plunges upwards into the gentle ocean swell.

Join Fiona Harper for an Indian Ocean crossing onboard luxury tall ship Star Clipper.


Terror on Tanna

Villagers play petanque, at the foot of Mount Yasur on Tanna Island

It's not every day you get to narrowly avoid falling into a volcano - even on Tanna Island, in Vanuatu


The Bird Men of Singapore

This article details the custom of these men who bring their caged birds to a cafe so they can learn from each other how to sing beautifully in order to win singing contests.


The Chieftain of Skull Island

Chief Eddie of Skull Island (above); Skulls of Rovaina warriors (right and below); Picture-perfect - one one of the Solomons' 999 islands (below right)

The chieftain of Kundu Hite (Skull Island) in the Solomon Islands is last in a long line of headhunters


The Mushrooming of Africa

Kaweche Kaunda, son of the first Zambian president, in the history-making rest shelter at Mushroom House (above); President Kaunda's original Mushroom House (right); an elephant strolls past the chalets of the new Mushroom Lodge (below)

The son of Zambia’s first President Kenneth Kaunda reminisces about his days growing up at "The Mushroom House", where Africa's history was shaped


Traipsing Through the Terelj

The Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, one of the most important nature reserves in Mongolia, is true wilderness country where yaks meander and stocky Mongolian horses graze.


Tribal Tales from Andhra

A day's drive northwest of Hyderabad is a wilderness that few foreigner visitors to India have ever seen.


Up with the Sun: Stepping Out in Central Australia

Ormiston Pound walk in the West Macdonnell Ranges

Walking in Central Australia is rewarding when you rise with the sun!


Wild About India

Hunting regally striped felines has long been banned in India but that doesn’t stop enthusiastic camera clutching tourists from actively ‘shooting’ tigers on wildlife safaris.


Wild Australians

Australia is a wildlife paradise full of some of nature’s oddest creations says Karen Halabi.


Wrangel Island: isolation, desolation and tragedy

Wrangel Island is an enigmatic landmass trapped in the fringes of the permanent Arctic ice pack. Born out of legend and maintained by tales of hardship, endurance and tragedy its apparently austere appearance hides a UNESCO World Heritage-listed, self-contained island ecosystem.


Yellow Waters, Yellow Eyes

Most southerners shun Australia's Top End during the hot, expectant time of year around October. Yet there is no better time to to visit, for now the Yellow Waters wetland becomes an Ark of browsing waterfowl, crocodiles half submerged like floating logs and the odd bird of prey, all jostling for space in a habitat which shrinks daily.

 


Yukon Yarns

Gold! Gold! Gold! On August 16, 1896 George Washington Carmack’s announcement echoed through the vast expanses of Canada’s Yukon. The Klondike Gold Rush had begun.

 

 


 

 
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